The shape or 'style' of your bonsai will say as much about the artist (you!) as it does about the plant. Here's a look at some different styles and what they mean - you may see one that moves you. Does this Spark an idea?

• Choose the kind of tree you want first and then consider the following styles as possibilities.


• Consider "formal upright," which is a good style for beginners. This style gives the feeling of an ancient and powerful denizen of the forest, yet needs less training than other styles. The trunk may be short or tall, but it is always straight and serene with its top directly above the trunk and roots.


• Try "informal upright," which follows many of the same characteristics as the formal upright style but allows for curves in the trunk (sometimes gentle, sometimes severe) - though the top is still positioned above the base of the trunk. A twisted trunk adds to the illusion of an avalanche, strong wind or another elemental condition.


• Consider "slanting," a style in which the treetop is not directly over its base. The angle of the trunk can vary greatly, but this style is generally broken into three categories: those with a very slight lean, those with leans of 30 to 45 degrees and those with a very strong lean.


• Look at "cascade," a style in which the major branch, or perhaps even the trunk of the tree, is at a level lower than the rim of the pot. "Semi-cascade" refers to a tree that has a single limb lower than the planter's rim. "Formal cascade" has a definite top branch, though this branch is not required to be directly over the trunk and can take on a slanting form. "Informal cascade" style lacks a 'top' and sometimes has a very contorted truck that may contain deadwood.


• Note that "elongated" style refers to an upright (formal or informal) tree with the lowest branch extending far past the normal length, but not dropped lower than the planter's rim as with cascade style. Large, exposed roots help add to the image of longevity and stability. This style is often used near water in full-size Japanese gardens.


• Consider "weeping" style, which is popular and easy to achieve and is not limited to the popular willow trees. Hemlock, laceleaf maple and wisteria are just a few other types that can be used with good results.


• Put two or more trees together for interesting designs that can, in a very small space, give the illusion of a tranquil forest setting. As few as two trees can create a sense of depth and add a much larger sense of scale to a planting.


• Choose trees that look good together. They should be sized and shaped to accommodate each other and contribute to the feeling of harmony and continuity.


• Remember that positioning is very important. In a two-tree planting, one tree may be set toward the front center while the second (often smaller) tree is set slightly back and midway between the first tree and the pot edge. The other half of the pot is left open to represent the balance of a full, closed forest and an empty, open meadow.


• Note that the three-tree style is important in many Japanese art forms. The trio can represent sun, moon and earth; or heaven, earth and man; or father, mother and child.


• Let yourself go. Group planting has an almost limitless capacity. There are five-, seven- and nine-tree styles that you can use in multiple-group plantings in a single planter or mini-landscapes. The only real limitations are your imagination.